Last day = Surf day

Went out for a surf this morning. It is that last day of school, so I was able to ditch my morning of work.
I just love splashing into that cold ocean early in the morning. Surfing is a beautiful way to start the day: sunlight reflecting off water, glassy smooth waves, and smiling people. Unky was out, Phil, Lei, and Holly came out as well. Katie enjoyed the view from a chair on the beach.
I'm sure she had a good show of me wiping out. Yup, eating it hard. You see, I haven't been surfing in a month. My weak arms combined with those random sets of giant waves (at least they were giant in my bugged out eyes) made a show for Katie I'm sure. After paddling for one wave, and feeling it begin to take me, I knew I didn't want to be on it. The fact that I can't turn, lead me to rip down the face. It was more like falling, only my surfboard happened to be under my feet. At the bottom of the wave (milliseconds later) my survival instinct finally kicked in. I bailed off, in a graceful belly flop. The resulting tumble and toss of the white water filled my sinuses (of which are still draining at inopportune times when I bend over). But is is the last day of school, so I don't really care if my students call me Mrs. Waterfall.
This weekend I celebrate one year of surfing. It has been a fun, humbling, and at time frightening year. I do love the sport. Like mentioned above, it is simply amazing to be out in nature early in the morning. Surfing is AUTHOME!